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Showing posts from April, 2026

930 miles and 74,000' climbed

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I finished the southern third of the Western Wildlands route at Bryce Canyon. Noel and Margo drove out to pick me up, see the scenery and do some hiking.  Nice to be back with family after a nice ride! From Marble Canyon I rode through Vermilion Cliffs past this condor viewing site, where a trio of hikers included me in their very tasty post-hike celebration. I climbed, slowly, up and was looking for a camp site when I heard "Jeff" and turned around. Lee was the only other bikepacker I met going any distance.  He rode the Arizona Trail (longer and harder) which overlaps with and crosses the Western Wildlands.  We camped together and then shared a hotel room in Kanab the next night.  I enjoyed having company. Fortunately it wasn't Sunday... shake was better than the sandwich. Kanab is seeing an influx of remote workers, retirees and the wealthy.  But still has some his...

Beauty, winds and the best/worst riding

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I left Flagstaff and climbed to 9400' (high point) in the San Francisco Peaks.  Almost nobody out there and nice riding, except For one big tree crossing.  I even got fresh tracks! I stopped early to not pass this campsite by  The snow-covered peak's been visible for days.  A day of nice riding on Forest Service roads got me to the Grand Canyon and a pretty sunset. You'll notice I've been wearing a windbreaker due to temps in the 40s and 50s and nearly constant 10-20 mph winds.  In the trees it's not so bad, but open areas have been chilly.  Better to be on the cool side, but headwinds are tough going. Day 3 from Flagstaff took me out in the Navajo Nation and a reroute.  They've closed part of the Western Wildlands so I missed staying at a campsite people say is amazing - first disappointment of the trip.  It also put me on the highway, ugh  ...

Out of the heat, up in the pines

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From Globe I climbed (back to back 6k+ days) and have been in familiar Ponderosa pine forest.  Goodbye to the Sonoran Desert... And hello to... All the campgrounds with services (outhouses, water, trash, etc.) are still closed, which makes them great places to camp alone!  No need for a shower when you've got a lake.  And "friends" I spent most of a day riding along the scenic Mogollon Rim (top photo of my bike) on a windy day. Another day of riding forest roads got me to Flagstaff and friendly Warmshowers hosts Didn't look like a canyon to me... Great bikeways here.  Today I got most of my chores done, including replacing a worn out rear tire, and enjoyed non- camping food. It's raining and 35 degrees so I'm happy to be inside.  Supposed to snow an inch overnight and my hosts are fine with me spending another night, so double rest day.  F...

Ups and downs in the desert

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I'm in Globe taking a rest/planning/prep day...my legs are happy.  From Tucson I climbed Mt. Lemmon on pavement and enjoyed a nice night up top  Plenty of sweating on this trip and it's been important to plan water availability.  I can carry 9L if needed, but haven't yet.  After buying a sandwich in Summerhaven at 8k elevation I dropped back down and made my way to Oracle. That's the 4wd road in the distance. I've been hosted by Warmshowers people in Sierra Vista, Tucson, Oracle and now Globe.  Warmshowers is a network of people who travel by bike and the wonderful people who provide a place to stay, a shower!, good conversations and often a meal.  The socializing is always interesting and nice after riding solo and it's excellent to meet people with sometimes very different lives. The route passes by many mining towns like Winkleman.  That's the tallest free-standing structure in AZ, a smelte...

First 3 days...

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Quick post tonight...  I'm in Tucson going up Mt. Lemmon tomorrow.  Day 1 was cloudy and cool (wish that weather had stayed!) for the ride south to the border.  I rode north on the San Pedro Trail and found a decent campsite away from where this guy warned me. After 10 miles on day 2 I had breakfast in Tombstone  before 30 miles of harder going with sandy sections, headwinds and 5 times unloading the bike to climb gates and this It was getting late before I found a spot just in time for a beautiful sunset. I've been dropping elevation and it was hotter today (day 3)... I made it over a pass to Tucson and finished the last of 5.5 liters of water as I arrived.  If my legs hold up to the climbing I'll be in Oracle the 5th and Globe the 7th.