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Homeward Bound

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My last days in Argentina I went to Calilegua National Park for some birding, short hikes and a last night camping.   Sculpture trail and a Plush-crested Jay. A few Argentina travel notes: * I passed through police checkpoints several times a day, usually without stopping.  They check documents and give advice, at least for me. * The colonial plazas are always nice to check out. * Tasty food with pizza (different toppings) and empanadas popular. * It wasn't convenient to get cash (without friends at least) and cards weren't widely accepted. The final stage of this trip was an extended  layover (40 hours) in Lima, Peru. I rented a car to escape the city of 12 million.  A little birding, a visit to Bandurrias (possibly the oldest "city" in the Americas, and some beach time with new friends. Peru is noticably poorer, which is challengi...
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Scenery, birds and wine

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Hello from Salta.  I'm back from the trip to Cachi and Cafayate.  While my original plan was to ride this loop, it would have been tough.  Down here the tobacco harvest is starting and it's pretty lush. A big climb gets you up to Cardones National Park where the birding is excellent with condors all over. I met a serious birder from Houston who invited me to stay in his Airbnb in Cachi (thanks Cin-ty!).  Behind the house there was a 21000'+ peak, only 14000' of climbing to get there... We enjoyed a day finding new species and I learned much from seeing him in action.  The road from Cachi to Cafayate passed through tiny towns and was pretty rough. I chatted with a Spanish bike tourer heading for the far south who found it pretty uncomfortable.  I was happy to relax in Cafayate a day and explore two small wineries. At this one, U...
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A memorable birthday!

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Hi all.  I'm now in Salta.  From Susques I visited the Salinas Grandes, camped out and then climbed the easy side of the Cuesta de Lipan, which means I descended 6000' on the other side! I stopped in Purmamarca where the tortilla (grilled empanada) sellers competed for my business.   The mushroom/onion/cheese one was the best.  I had one from each :-) Trees and greenery appeared!  After lunch it was a hot ride to Tilcara where I had an excellent dinner of plum and smoked ham ravioli with the pasta made with roasted corn.  Way better than salami on crackers šŸ˜. Saturday I battled a headwind and then rode through rain (it felt good to my dried out skin) to San Salvador de Jujuy where my friends Federico and Javi from the 2020 trip hosted a birthday (60!) BBQ that went until 2 AM. I was treated like family and had a wonderful time. Summer is the rainy season here and it's ...
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Made it over the Andes!

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I'm writing from Susques, Argentina where I'm below 14000' for the first time since making it up the huge climb out of San Pedro de Atacama. All smiles at the bottom... The road goes to the right of the 19,400' volcano. It was a long grind lightened occasionally by the locals.  Surprisingly I didn't feel limited by the altitude, but my legs needed rest more and more frequently until it was every 5-7 minutes.  The alternative would have been debilitating cramps.  If I'd found a campsite below the top I would have taken it. Here's where I ended up.  Getting shelter from the wind is critical.  It dropped below freezing all three nights, but I stayed plenty warm thanks to good gear.   Even with sore legs and limited oxygen, day two exceeded expectations and included the high point of 15,955'. VicuƱas all over. A few spots with water attract good birds and more vicuƱas.  ...
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I'm riding tomorrow morning!

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I'm writing from San Pedro de Atacama in northern Chile after visiting Margo in Valparaiso/ViƱa del Mar.  Fortunately all our travels have gone smoothly, Noel made it home and my bike made here intact. With 6 hours in Santiago I went hiking and saw my first Giant Hummingbird!  Yes it's huge.   Valparaiso tourist pix... Margo left for Patagonia Thursday and we drove to Chimbarongo for a lovely visit with Nazaret and Atarnan.  Besides catching up after 5 years we were treated to excellent wine and food.  Muchas gracias amigos! Back to Santiago for our flights.  Mine was spectacular paralleling the Andes. San Pedro is very touristed, but has provided a good staging area.  I've seen several new birds and got out for a fun ride. Up, up and away tomorrow with 7500' to climb in 30 miles.  I'll ride over 15000' if the legs and lungs allow....
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